Rotate the gutter upward until its back edge slips into the hooks at the top of the back of the brackets (as shown).Lay the gutter into the brackets that you’ve lag-screwed to the fascia.To ensure a watertight joint, seal the rivets and the end-cap seam on the inside of the gutter with a high-quality siliconized caulk.Remove the temporary screw and replace it with a rivet.To do this, hold the end cap in place temporarily with a single sheet-metal screw, then drill a 1/8-inch-diameter hole and install one pop rivet (above).(If the gutter doesn’t turn a corner, fasten an end cap to each end.) At the square-cut end of the gutter, attach a spherical end cap with aluminum pop rivets.Tip: Locate screws or rivets in the sides of the gutter, never in the bottom. If the run requires two sections of gutter, overlap them by 8 inches and use a 3/8-inch-long, self-tapping, stainless steel screws or pop rivets, in two rows of four each, to join them.If the gutter continues around a corner, cut the appropriate angle (typically 45 degrees) on that end.Cut gutter section to length with hacksaw and aviation snips, or with a 12-inch power miter saw fitted with a carbide-tipped finish blade (as shown).Tip: Check the fascia for rot - and make repairs if necessary - before installing the gutters. Snap a chalk line between the two points (as shown).At the other end of the fascia (or at the downspout location if there’s one in the middle of the run), mark the low end of the gutter run, keeping in mind that the slope should be approximately ½ inch for every 10 feet of run.Mark the highest point of the gutter run on the fascia 1 ¼ inches below the metal drip-edge flashing (on the extra-wide fascia shown here, the gutter is lower down). Determine what works best for your house before ordering gutters and attachments. Or you can slope the gutters down from each end toward a single downspout placed in the middle of the run. For gutter runs longer than 40 feet, it’s best to pitch the gutter down from the middle to a downspout at each end. To ensure that gutters drain properly, make certain they slope (½ inch for every 10 feet) toward a downspout. At the ends of the gutters are 4-inch-diameter corrugated aluminum downspouts ($1.75 per linear foot), which were ordered in white to match the house trim. The dark-green aluminum gutters used here ($2.75 per linear foot, materials only) were attached to the fascia with cast-aluminum, closed-curl brackets ($8 each), which the homeowners spray-painted antique gold. His company makes distinctive, half-round reproduction gutters, which have been featured on several This Old House TV projects. If you have a basement, the water could also leak into it. If you have a house that doesn’t have a gutter, the rainwater that comes off the roof and hits the ground could damage the siding and trim. That’s why we enlisted Agustin Crookston, owner of Classic Gutter Systems in Kalamazoo, Michigan, to show how attractive gutters can be-and how easy to install. Many homeowners nurse their battered, leaky gutters along because they just don’t see the reward of new gutters outweighing the effort required to replace them.
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